If it weren’t for the Macedonian “Hotdog People” immigrating to Michigan and the Midwest, I would not be having this for dinner today. This “coney island hotdog” made many Macedonians very wealthy, indeed.
Story about the Macedonian Hotdog People from “Macedonian Truth Forum.”
Here’s a story about Macedonians and the coney hot dogs that are famous in the Midwest USA. There are debates about when and how the Coney became famous in our lands, but most evidence points to the Macedonians. Coney Islands used to be operated by mostly Macedonians, usually Macedonians from Greece, and Greeks. Now most are operated by Albanians and Middle Easterners, while some are still operated by Greeks, and few by Macedonians. Here is a story of some Macedonians retiring from the business in Michigan.
This hotdog was invented by Macedonian George Todoroff when he opened his Coney Island restaurant in Jackson, Michigan around 1914. The restaurant is still there and doing great business.
The Coney “Holy Grail”: That Recipe for Macedonian Goulash
Michigan coney sauce developer Simion P. Brayan talked about a goulash that “contained parts of a cow that most Americans would declare positively yukky [sic].” He continued, “to make a better coney sauce, one should blend flavorful beef heart and kidney with the beef using beef suet as a base.” Such a dish doesn’t appear to exist anymore, so we developed this recipe from recipes we believe capture the spirit of the goulash he was talking about.
A serving of Macedonian Goulash. This was made with all beef hearts.
Tracking down such a recipe is no mean feat. Likely because of the war in the early years of the 20th century, and the First and Second Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913, very little record of the Macedonian cuisine of the time has survived. We do know that they would have been “nose-to-tail” eaters as that’s how people cooked back then. But even more accurately, home cooks … cooked. Like your grandmother and great-grandmother, they simply didn’t write recipes down. They learned from their own family memebers, and there were no cookbooks in those homes like there are today.
Below is the recipe as we tested it. A whole beef heart generally weighs about 4-1/2 lb. Once the fat and membranes are trimmed, the weight is about 4 lb. This doen’t need to be exact, and really, the whole recipe is just begging for modifications. As it is, though, we hope it’s quite close to what Simion P. Brayan recalled when he developed the coney sauce in the first place.
Tested November 4, 2014Ingredients
4 lb beef heart
1/2 lb beef kidney (optional)
4 lb onions
1 cup lard
2 tablespoons smoked paprika
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 tablespoons lard
2 tablespoons flour
Chop the onions to 1/4″. Trim the fat and any membranes off the meats and cut into 1/2″ cubes. Melt the 1 cup of lard in an 8-quart and sauté the onions until browned. Add the meat to the onion and lard mixture and brown. Once the meat is browned, add enough cold water to cover the meat. Bring the water to a boil and season with salt and pepper. Boil until the meat is fork tender, 60 to 90 minutes, adding more water whenever necessary, again, to just cover the meat. When the meat is fork tender, make a roux in a small pan from the one tablespoon each of lard and flour. As soon as the roux form begins to form, slowly add the paprika and chili powder. Cook for about 10 seconds, then add the spiced roux to the goulash to thicken. Serve in bowls.
The smell of the dish can be somewhat off-putting to some, but even those diners said the flavor and texture of this dish was quite good. To make it more palatable for Americans, serve the goulash over a bed of cooked-and-drained wide egg noodles, and top the dish with a dollop of sour cream.