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  • #343732

    Anonymous
    [img width=700 height=304]http://www.organizmica.org/archive/307/image095.jpg” />

    For many centuries a headdress has been an important part of the Russian national costume.
    There was a tradition in Rus': young girls and women always had to “cover their hair”. Russian people believed that the hair could attract evil spirits, especially the hair of a married woman. Till nowadays we have been using a word “oprostovolositsya” -“to tousle the hair” – that means “to disgrace oneself”.

    How did Russian women do their hair?

    Not married young ladies used to braid their hair. “The main girl’s beauty was her tress”. The hair was parted in the middle and braided low on the back of the head. The headdress always matched the hairstyle. The headwear left the crown of the head and the tress visible, showing the girl’s beauty.

    Russian married peasant women usually made two tresses and arranged them on the head; or wore their hair in a bun. They concealed all the hair under the headdress, as according to the ancient customs, married ladies were not allowed to show their hair.

    The headdress could “tell” us much not only about the woman’s origin, but also about her age, marital or social status.

    Russian young girls used to wear metal narrow headbands with temple rings and other decorations. Leather or birch bark headbands(обруч), covered with clothes and richly decorated (with beads, embroidery, river pearls and precious stones) became a diadem. Diadems could also have three or four “teeth” and a front removable part, so called “otchel’e”.

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    People believed that the diadem(повязка) is a wreath variation, one of the most ancient girls’ headdresses in Russia. Wreaths were initially twined of field and meadow flowers. Later, the wreath flowers were fixed on a birch bark or metal headband and richly decorated with beads, gold or multicolored ribbons.

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    [img width=700 height=525]http://www.artbiser.ru/images/socio/works/896/2011/08/29/73590411d2b265508b24807e86e69a2e.jpg” />

    [img width=466 height=700]http://fashion.rin.ru/uni/images/newsezon/2453-1.jpg” />

    Centuries ago flower wreath(венок) was an important part of every pagan rite; a young girl was participating in (herb picking, jumping over the fire). Young girls used to twine their wreaths of field flowers to drop them into water. The girl, whose wreath would be the first to reach the other river bank, would be the first to get married among her friends.

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    Married peasants were usually dressed in “sorokas”.

    Soroka is one of the oldest Russian headdresses of married women. According to the archaeological data, women had already worn the soroka in the XIIth century. Since that time it had been wide spread in Russia. Every peasant woman knew how to sew a soroka. This headdress was usually composed of several elements: a kitchka, a posatylnik, a nalobnik and a shawl. The kitchka (from the word “kitchet”, that meant “swan”) was a small round cap, made of canvas. On its front was fixed a firm wooden part (of linden, elm or birch tree). The kitchka was famous for the variety of shapes: horn-shaped (in Ryasan’, Tula, Kaluga, Oryol regions), spade- or hoof-shaped (in Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces), circle- or oval-shaped, etc.
    The soroka itself was a long woven cloth, fixed on the kitchka and falling down to the back and shoulders. The temple hair was concealed with a posatylnik – a cloth on a firm base. The front and the temples were covered with an embroidered ribbon, so called “nalobnik”. Over the soroka was tied a shawl.

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    (Ryazan Area 1900 year, soroka with horned "kichka" ( кичка))
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    (Kika (кика))

    The word kokoshnik was first mentioned in the documents of the XVIth century. Unlike the dailyheaddress (a soroka or a shawl), the kokoshnik was initially a holiday, even a wedding headwear. No wonder the kokoshnik was an element of a bride dress, as its shape resembles the domes of Russian churches, where the wedding ceremony always took place.

    There is a great number of kokoshnik types.  Слово "кокошник" происходит от древнеславянского слова "кокош", означающего курицу-наседку или петуха.  Тем не менее уже в погребениях Новгорода, относящихся к X-XII веку встречаются некоторые подобия кокошника: твёрдого головного убора, низко сидящего на лбу и закрывавшего голову полностью до ушей.
    Province women used to wear kokoshniks of different shapes and decorations. The ladies from the Central Russia preferred triangular-shaped kokoshniks, looking like a half-moon. The Northern women used to decorate this headdress with river pearls. The firm part of the kokoshnik was sewn to a small cap covering all the head. Its front part was often embroidered with pearls, beads, falling down to the front; and a muslin shawl was fixed on the top. Kokoshniks were made by special artists in towns, villages or convents and were sold in fairs. In the XVIIIth century some kokoshniks could cost ten times more than a good horse.

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    Many women headdresses in Russia came from high antiquity. A headwear had its special symbolic for a Russian woman. Old traditions were always closely connected to the headdress, whether it was a flower wreath or a diadem – symbol of maidenhood; or a kokoshnik for a bride. Headdresses were gently passed from mothers to daughters to keep the memory of our ancestors.

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    [img width=532 height=700]http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/3408/vitanika2.4/0_c7b1_3d3f5a94_XL” />

    (село Ненокса нач. ХХв.)

    If you would like to see Regional Russian Headdresses go here http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/kokoshniki.html
    http://larussie.narod.ru/odezhda/od06_01.htm 
    http://www.narodko.ru/article/ahat/nat/

    #391026

    Anonymous

    The kokoshnik is so beautiful and elaborate. Was it worn by simple peasants or only by middle-high classes?

    Anyway, very good thread.

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    #391027

    Anonymous

    I'm very happy to read about  Russian headdresses!thank you for making time to write this. It seems that I'm not the only one who wanted to read about it. As I could see in "Slavic picture of the day", Slavicmuse was also into  :). The old photos are amazing !One more question  ;D:

    Can you tell me from what those is made this one, please?:

    [img width=700 height=525]http://www.artbiser.ru/images/socio/works/896/2011/08/29/73590411d2b265508b24807e86e69a2e.jpg” />

    We have in Romania similar ones, but we use them as ***elery for neck:

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    [img width=700 height=362]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U29PHdwgO5I/Ti-5fykNEII/AAAAAAAAC00/pa6TiKEoGqo/s1600/mz_tr_p6.jpg” />

    #391028

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    The kokoshnik is so beautiful and elaborate. Was it worn by simple peasants or only by middle-high classes?

    Anyway, very good thread.

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    No, kokoshnik was only the thing of rich women, and also it was used as wedding headdress :)
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    #391029

    Anonymous

    Intense!!  Thank you sooooo much! :) I'm obsessed with hair, especially my own. LOL  So I love hearing about headdresses and hair traditions of all Slavs! :) I'm curious, too, and would love to know how those ribbons are done. :)

    #391030

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    I'm very happy to read about  Russian headdresses!thank you for making time to write this. It seems that I'm not the only one who wanted to read about it. As I could see in "Slavic picture of the day", Slavicmuse was also into  :). The old photos are amazing !One more question  ;D:

    Can you tell me from what those is made this one, please?:

    [img width=700 height=525]http://www.artbiser.ru/images/socio/works/896/2011/08/29/73590411d2b265508b24807e86e69a2e.jpg” />

    We have in Romania similar ones, but we use them as ***elery for neck:

    image

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    [img width=700 height=362]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U29PHdwgO5I/Ti-5fykNEII/AAAAAAAAC00/pa6TiKEoGqo/s1600/mz_tr_p6.jpg” />

    I guess this red one is made from silk and these are the beads of course like on the picture which you posted
    It also was called налобник in ancient time because it should be wore на лоб)) Налобник can be made from different clothes.

    image

    #391031

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    Intense!!  Thank you sooooo much! :) I'm obsessed with hair, especially my own. LOL  So I love hearing about headdresses and hair traditions of all Slavs! :) I'm curious, too, and would love to know how those ribbons are done. :)

    Thank you for appreciate ! :) I was trying to do it well ))

    #391032

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    Thank you for appreciate ! :) I was trying to do it well ))

    You did magnificently!! Большое спасибо!!

    #391033

    Anonymous

    Не за что!  :D

    #391034

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    I guess this red one is made from silk and these are the beads of course like on the picture which you posted :)
    It also was called налобник in ancient time because it should be wore на лоб)) Налобник can be made from different clothes. :)

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    Thanks for the answer. When I asked you from what they are made from, I was refering to the material of beads. I should have been more specific :) In Romania now many of such jewelries are made of plastic. I was curious if in Russia is the same.

    #391035

    Anonymous

    Nice stuff  ;)  Slovak folk costumes have also similar headdresses.. here are examples, but there are much more :

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    [img width=451 height=700]http://www.hronskeklacany.sk/photo_gallery/Tekovsk%FD%20kroj/kroj02.jpg” />

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    [img width=700 height=466]http://www.mf-artstudio.sk/data/obrazky/Svadobná%20agentúra/čepčenie/img01063.jpg” />

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    #391036

    Anonymous

    Oh, now I get :D
    In Russia the beads mainly are made from the glass. The beads which made from other material are rarely could find there, f.ex. from wood, plastic, metal and stones. I am not a big fan of the beads so I can't tell you more about that :) only this primitive knowledge haha

    #391037

    Anonymous

    .. or this one :D

    [img width=425 height=700]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/388126_366440900092389_1134251127_n.jpg” />

    #391038

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    Nice stuff  ;)  Slovak folk costumes have also similar headdresses.. here are examples, but there are much more :

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    [img width=451 height=700]http://www.hronskeklacany.sk/photo_gallery/Tekovsk%FD%20kroj/kroj02.jpg” />

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    [img width=700 height=466]http://www.mf-artstudio.sk/data/obrazky/Svadobná%20agentúra/čepčenie/img01063.jpg” />

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    Thanks, Swaty
    these Slovak headdresses are beautiful too and I wonder why some of them are so high in our folks ..hhm )

    #391039

    Anonymous
    Quote:
    .. or this one :D

    [img width=425 height=700]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/388126_366440900092389_1134251127_n.jpg” />

    Oh my God, ahaha!
    and one more :
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